In Upper Engadin valley in the southeastern Swiss Alps, everything revolves around the mountains, the lakes and the light. The landscape is never boring, the locals assert, due to the way the light plays in different shades – dancing from the quaint gabled chalet rooftops and across the tips of dense pine forests to the 4,000-metre mountain peaks, creating myriad moods in just one day.
Mountain magic
Taking the picturesque three-hour journey by rail from Zurich to the Engadin town of Samedan, I realise I’m completely