of familiar favorites (jerky, salt cod, corned beef, smoked trout), Indonesia’s is the result of a preservation tactic. Cooks in the 16th century found that slow-cooking beef smothered in an intense paste of ginger, garlic, lemongrass, chiles, and coconut resulted in meat that would last for weeks, even in the tropical heat. As with other preserved fare, we don’t nowadays for its functionality, but instead for its flavor. Which is, yes, , in all the right ways: savory, spicy, nutty, garlicky, citrusy. Our version omits traditional galangal, fresh turmeric, and a few other hard-to-find ingredients, but otherwise cranks up the flavor quotient with venison in place of beef. Because this is a long, slow braise, and because of the potent seasonings, is a great way to tame the tang and texture of a bull elk or moose or even a chewy wild boar. A couple of notes: Make sure not to use low-fat or “light” coconut milk; wild game needs all the fat it can get. Also, this recipe makes for a medium-spicy dish; use up to three fresh or 12 dried chiles if you want some tongue singe.