WITHIN OUR DINING culture, we have evolved our habits to drink big red wines with meat. Hearty, juicy, red meat. Satisfying bottlings made from grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are flattered by a steak or a lamb chop—and, of course, they make the food look good, too. It's a mutual admiration society.
Just pick up any bottle of, say, a Rhône-style blend from Paso Robles. Somewhere on the back it