hen I first visited Oslo in 2014, Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta’s Opera House was the big vision of the city, both outside and in. It still is. But where the rest of the harbour on the Oslo fjord was one vast building site back then, there are now rival attractions: the Munch Museum round the corner, marketed as MUNCH and opened in 2021, the Oslo Public Library (2020) and the National Museum (not quite open on my most recent trip, but now very much up and running). What remains an
