Standing at the base of a nearly 400m rock face contemplating the climb ahead would be daunting for many people—including me. Luckily my companions seem less daunted and more excited. After two days of hiking, we’ve found the start of The Sydney Route, an epic 13-pitch trad climb on the vertical quartzite face at the top of Frenchmans Cap, in Tasmania’s Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.
This route was first climbed in 1965 by Bryden Allen and Jack Pettigrew. In the 57 years since then, climbing gear has advanced dramatically. Photos of people climbing in the 1960s show clunky boots, thick-laid ropes and harnesses that were often little more than a bowline-tied loop around the waist. Stories from older climbers tell of homemade protection to secure the rope as they climbed, soft steel pitons to be hammered in, and belaying off single slings using steel carabiners. In those days, the gear might have saved your life in a fall, but it was best not to test it often.
These days, our gear is lighter and more comfortable, and protection is carefully designed, more varied and tested for safety. And, thanks to all those who’ve come before us, we have a detailed description of the best line to follow. Even so, I’m nervy. I can only imagine how Bryden and Jack, at the time 24 and 21, felt as they began the first ascent.
The decision to climb Frenchmans Cap came from my partner, Peter. I was an almost throwaway suggestion. We’d booked a trip to Tasmania, then realised our friends—a climbing power couple Will and Nat—would be there too. Peter suggested we all meet up for a few days. I agreed, enthusiastically imagining a long coastal route, and maybe an easy sea stack. Peter, however, presumably just Googled “mad adventure climbs in Tassie”, and he
