Ancient world maps, such as the 1502 Cantino planisphere, not only depicted mythological creatures like mermaids, but also fictitious geographical features.
Europeans, for example, once believed that a great river flowed down the western side of Southern Africa.
This imaginary river was called the Vigiti Magna – Latin for ‘Great Force’ – and it was given this name long before any white man laid eyes on the true great riser. It was believed that a magnificent city of gold of the same name stood on the shore of the Vigiti Magna. The assumption was partially based on stories told to Europeans by Arab traders who had been dealing with the continent since the eighth century.
Grab your fishing rod because we're about to trace the Orange River as closely as possible from source to mouth. Let's go!
OUR JOURNEY STARTS at the top of Sani Pass, the second highest in South Africa. To get an early start, overnight at one of three accommodation options: the Sani Mountain Lodge (known for the highest pub in Africa), the Sani Top Backpackers with a small campsite (they have two braais) and Masoba-Soba Lodge, also with camping facilities.
A piercing wind blasts past us down the Drakensberg escarpment. It's best to not dilly-dally because there's a long drive ahead of you today Leave with the rising sun in your rearview mirror and follow the A14 tarred road over Koti Se Phola Pass (it's 364 m higher than Sani) to the town of Mokhotlong – a distance of 53 km that should take roughly an hour and a half to drive.
Mokhotlong – it means ‘place of the bald ibis’ in Sesotho – has no street signs and you follow the main road to 150 m before a Puma fuel station, where you turn left on a potholed tar road past the town's airstrip. Tar soon turns to dirt and for the next 40 km the road snakes along the Senqu River. Senqu is the Basotho nanre for the Orapge River and it means ‘Black River’.
The dirt road is washed away in places and you'll need to engage four-wheel drive. Our Jeep Gladiator equipped with Fox suspension and 35” mud-terrain tyres makes light work of these obstacles (our driving impression is on page 88), but a regular bakkie will require patience.
Conditions improve the farther away from Mokhotlong you go. Ford the Thanyaku River at a village of the same name, and turn left after the settlement's airstrip, deeper into the mountains.
Follow this twin-track for 3 km to
