Diriyah: The city of earth
A series of huge projects are changing the face of Saudi Arabia, but none is more symbolic than the restoration of its old capital, finds Lyn Hughes
“Many people don't know Saudi food,” explained Hadeel Al Mutawa, the female founder of Takya restaurant, as eight of us sat around a table in relaxed camaraderie sharing the first wave of dishes she had sent out. A salad of fig, mandarin and pomegranate arrived, followed by citrus-infused chickpeas with beetroot, and light dumplings stuffed with pumpkin. It was traditional food but made with a contemporary twist and taken to fine-dining levels. It's no surprise that Takya was one of the first restaurants offered a prestigious spot in a new high-profile development overlooking the UNESCO World Heritage site of At-Turaif. Hadeel had more than earned her place at its table.
Just as enjoyable as the mouthwatering cuisine was the wide-ranging conversation swirling around it. My Saudi companions were all connected in some way with At-Turaif and Diriyah – a project launched to restore what was the birthplace of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, capital of the First Saudi State and original home of the Al Saud family, opening it back up to the public. It was the reason for my visit. But what also struck me was how we were all men and women dining together in Saudi Arabia, the conversation both rich and stimulating.
If you haven't heard, there's change afoot in Saudi. His Royal Highness the Crown Prince Mohammed Bin Salman Al Saud is on a mission to transform the kingdom's economy with his Vision 2030 masterplan, fuelled partly by opening the country up to tourism. And with two-thirds of the population under the age of 35, the social transformations it has triggered are being embraced by a new generation, at least in the main centres.
Since 2019 there have been radical changes here. Men and women are no longer segregated in restaurants. There are targets to get more women into employment – and they can now drive. Cinemas have even opened and the arts are now being encouraged. It was my first visit to Saudi, and in truth, I wasn't sure what to expect. But the tone was set upon arriving at Riyadh's airport, where the immigration official was an efficient but friendly woman, who promptly told me to enjoy my stay.
Just as fascinating is how the country is reshaping itself physically. Several giga-projects are being planned as part of this transformation, and tourism is driving many of them. NEOM, a futuristic mega city, has been making headlines, as has a huge project on the Red Sea that includes a luxurjf tourism destination, AMAALA, which is due to open in 2027. But one of the first, and arguably most important, developments is Diriyah.
This project cuts to the heart of the nation and its Saudi identity. Once a nondescript town on the outskirts of Riyadh, Diriyah is home to the UNESCO World Heritage site of At-Turaif. It was inscribed in 2010, yet its mud-built palace, monuments and mosques had been little visited or appreciated, even by Saudis.
The plans for Diriyah's redevelopment are far-reaching but also mindful of the area's past. A large section will be pedestrianised; cars will be banished underground, with parking going three levels deep. All buildings, including the hotels that are opening, will be built in the Najdi style, with exteriors made of traditional mud bricks. Looking at the plans, it was apparent that much of it will be made on a very human scale, with shaded narrow streets echoing tire Arabian cities
