Nathan Hood has cooked in kitchens from Dublin to Honolulu, but returning to the Charleston, South Carolina, area two years ago was a no-brainer. “I was very fortunate to grow up here and washarbor from downtown Charleston. “You have some of the most fertile soil all around the Charleston peninsula, and some of the best fruits and vegetables I have ever come across.” One of his favorite finds hails from a bit upstate: the Dutch Fork pumpkin, an heirloom that ripens in autumn and sticks around through December. Descended from a variety grown by the Cherokee and cultivated since the early nineteenth century in the Dutch Fork area (where the Broad and Saluda Rivers converge to form a fork), it has a flavor similar to that of butternut squash but makes a silkier and smoother puree that’s unmatched for baking into pies and breads (see recipe). It’s also great for roasting and stuffing for a beautiful side dish at your holiday table. “The density of the meat really sets it apart,” Hood says. “As the meat cooks, it soaks in whatever you put in there while not breaking down and getting watery.”
