Garden & Gun

.13 ROLES DE CANELATO COVET

Six days a week at seven in the morning, the future of Southern baking emerges from a convection oven in Louisville and goes on display in a six-slot pastry case that looks like a grade-school gym cubby.

Sold from a walk-up window, the from La Pana, a Mexican American bakery in Logan Street Market, translates from the Spanish as a cinnamon roll with cream. Speckled with pecans, baked until russet and crisp, slit along the side while still warm, piped with chilled vanilla custard, and dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar, it translates on the tongue as an improvement on a beloved sugar-and-joy delivery vehicle that previously seemed to require no intervention.

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