Sporting a trim ecru suit, Edgar L. “Dooky” Chase III works the chandelier-lit main dining room at Dooky Chase’s. He bumps fists and smiles big. I can’t hear what he says, but grins on the faces of regulars tell me he’s asking after children, checking on parents, doling out compliments. Founded in 1941, Dooky Chase’s, in the Tremé neighborhood of New Orleans, rose to fame on the talent and determination of his late mother, Leah Chase.
His elegant sisters, Stella Chase Reese and Leah Chase