IN 2015 I TOURED EUROPE ON MY BMW R100CS. I HAD the briefest sample of Albania, an afternoon riding the most dramatic mountainous landscape on a pristine ribbon of tarmac. Smooth riding perfection soon turned to a perilous off-road trail that put me and my bike well out of our comfort zone. As snow fell and my extended sump rebounded off rocks, I made a rare sensible decision and turned back to Montenegro, vowing to return to Albania, but better prepared one day.
Seven years later I took my BMW R80ST to better cope. Not a true off-road bike, but with modifications such as wide ‘bars, 21-inch front wheel, long rear
