VINTAGE
99 Philipponnat 2013 Clos des Goisses Extra Brut (Champagne). The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025. Banville Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $320
96 Billecart-Salmon 2009 Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rosé (Champagne). One of the great rosés, this Champagne named after a member of the family, is ripe with layers of red fruits and tight acidity. This vintage is still amazingly young, fresh and crisp with only a hint of maturity creeping in at the end. Drink now, and also age further. Billecart Salmon USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $225
96 Lanson 2009 Clos Lanson Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (Champagne). From a walled vineyard in the city of Reims, this Blanc de Blancs is made in limited quantities. Twelve years aging on the lees has softened the dryness of the Champagne and produced a marvelously toasty, fruity wine. Acidity contrasts with the nutty quality of the wine. The Champagne is at its peak. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $350
95 Billecart-Salmon 2008 Louis Salmon Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Perfectly mature, this Champagne has richness as well as a taut mineral texture. The wine is delicious with its steely edge balanced by bright apple flavors. It is well ready to drink. Billecart Salmon USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $210
95 Lanson 2004 Noble Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Aged for 18 years on its lees, this Champagne is beautifully shaped. It is by no means old, only just mature, with citrus flavors and a mineral texture still in focus. It is a very fine wine that could age further although it can be drunk now. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $250
This iteration of the prestige cuvée from Lanson is now well mature, but certainly not old. Even at nearly 20 years in age, it shows richness and toast while also having ripe white-fruit flavors. It is a beautifully balanced Champagne, still crisp from the dominant Chardonnay in the blend. Drink the wine now. Deutsch Family Wine and
