In the Vézère Valley, traces of early mankind are everywhere. We'd stayed here several times before, going on guided tours of the hillforts and caves. This time we decided to look further and find places not on the usual tourist trail.
We were lucky in that we found our ideal campsite at Le Queylou on a farm, high above the river. We shared this temporary home with a donkey, two goats and some chickens. One evening we were joined by two cows and a large pig, which had escaped from a neighbouring farm. It was the perfect place for relaxation.
Why did so many early humans settle down to live in the Vézère Valley? All the necessities were here: food, water, wood and so on. Another important factor was the geology, which created caves high up on rock faces, making ideal and comparatively safe living quarters for early mankind. Only a few of these caves have become famous and opened to the public on organised visits – but there are more.
Just a few miles from our campsite at Le Queylou is the village of Campagne with its Romanesque church and château. Purists might argue that the château has been over-restored; I feel that it has been extended
