We found ourselves going against SCORES OF BOATS rowed by TONED FISHERMEN who would SPEND THE NIGHT with lines or nets cast
A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT
From Mangochi, you can cruise south along the Shire River, which drains Lake Malawi, to reach Liwonde National Park, but the trip is also an interesting drive through an evocative landscape. For one stretch there is a seemingly infinite expanse of baobabs, a veritable forest visible for miles along the main road.
Another reason to drive are the streetside markets, the broad grins on kind faces that accompany fistfuls of just-roasted mielies or skewers of snack-size roasted quails that are held up to the car window.
You can buy lengths of sugar cane that will be machete-chopped into ruler-sized pieces for
