HE REWROTE the rules of what it was possible to do on a surfboard – zigzagging through the waves. He was a bronzed surf god who revolutionised the sport and is still regarded as one of the best surfers of all time.
Although it’s been more than 30 years since he retired, Shaun Tomson still jumps at every chance he can to grab his board and catch some waves.
There’s nothing that beats that moment of surfing inside the tube, Shaun tells us as he chats by video call from his home in Montecito, California.
“You feel like you are in absolute control, that you can curve that wall of water to your will. It’s a wonderful feeling,”
