Cuisine at home

BOILED & BAKED

TRUE NEW YORK BAGELS ARE THINGS OF BEAUTY. Boiled then baked, they’re dense but not too dense, with glossy, crackly crusts and soft insides. But NYC isn’t the only place to get decent bagels — they’re one of the simplest breads to make at home.

The secrets, if you will, start with a long (overnight) cold proof to help build flavor. Plus, using bread flour, which is higher in protein than all-purpose flour, helps achieve that chewy texture. And, using a lower percentage of water than what’s typically used in other bread doughs produces a stiff dough that can stand up to boiling the bagels, helping to set the crust before baking. One word about the stiffness of the dough: It will

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