IN A CRISP spring morning, I am ushered from the iconic Rumi Darwaza to a slightly raised part called Laxman Tila. In between rose plantations and a soft-hued Awadhi sky, my eyes fall on the motif of a pair of fish. Mahi Maratib (the fish standard) was the highest honour of bravery in the Mughal empire. It was conferred upon the highest dignitaries by the emperors. The twin fish gained more prominence in time and became the chief element of the royal insignia of Awadh. Over the day, I would realise that the fish is omnipresent in the Awadh region, from every ancient gate in the city and the state crest to organza chikankari saris and modern-day logos.
My guide Samir Kher is a Lucknow native who runs a
