GENERAL
Charging problems
Q I’m hoping you can help out (again!) with a problem this time on my kit car. It’s using a 2.0 SIlvertop Zetec, with a Brise alternator fitted.
I’ve only just got it completed, and still have a few wiring glitches to sort out, so when I saw that the battery warning light wasn’t going out when I start the engine, I just put it down to being another glitch.
However, it went for its MOT the other day, and the mechanic there (who I’ve used for years and trust) said it looked like an alternator problem, because the battery voltage doesn’t go up when the engine starts.
My issue is that the alternator that’s on, while a few years old, was new with the kit, and has only done about 40 miles, so I’m a bit reluctant to splash out on a new one without first checking that it is, indeed, faulty.
Is there a simple way of checking it please?
Craig McWiggan
A The Brise alternator should be a simple three-wire alternator with an internal regulator, and so diagnosis should be simple. This is providing the vehicle hasn’t been fitted with the Ford smart charging system, which I would not expect it to be.
The three wires coming from the alternator should be the large main 12-volt feed to the battery positive terminal, and the two smaller terminals which are the ignition feed to the alternator marked IG and the feed to the warning light marked L. Brise do have the wiring diagram on their website at this link https://bit.ly/CM6dAWL
The first check would be to ensure that the IG terminal has a feed when the ignition is switched on, and that the main lead has a constant 12V feed. If this is the case and the voltage of the battery/main lead does not rise when the engine is running, then it does sound as though the alternator has failed.
The ignition warning light is illuminated by earthing through the alternator, and when the alternator begins to charge the current is effectively pushed back through the ignition light circuit, closing the earth and extinguishing the light. If this is not occurring, then the failure is most likely internal.
FORD FOCUS
Powershift transmission
Q I’m looking for a Ford Focus or Mondeo with 2.0 diesel engine around 8 to 10 years old, ideally an automatic but after reading about troubles with the Powershift transmission I would rather go for the one with a torque converter.
Can you tell me if those models with 2.0 TDCi engines were ever equipped with a ‘normal’ automatic transmissions or only available with a direct shift ones. If so, how can I tell the difference when browsing the adverts or what should I be asking the seller for, when enquiring for information?
Bartosz Kijanski
A From the data I have all of the automatic options in the secondgeneration (2004-2011) Ford Focus range were the Powershift type.
The 2007 to 2014 Ford Mondeo (thirdgeneration) had either the six-speed automatic or the six-speed Powershift gearbox, so it would probably be the Mondeo you would need to look at in order to avoid the Powershift unit. By inputing the registration number into the www.etis.ford.com website the vehicle details should be displayed including the VIN number, but from a quick check this does not seem to include the transmission type.
PowerShift was introduced with the facelift in early 2011, so the earlier vehicles are more likely to have the Durashift 'box. The Powershift in the 2.0-litre Fords was the six-speed wet clutch type and had less problems than the seven-speed dry clutch type in the smaller engine vehicles.
The name for the conventional transmission type is Durashift and these ’boxes, made by Aisin, do have the torque convertor system. And should be found in the Mondeo 2.2 diesel.
The name for the gearbox you wish to avoid is the Powershift unit, and if the vehicle is being advertised, this should be displayed as such.
FORD RANGER
Valve adjustment
Q Thank you for the information you gave me on my 2009 Ford Ranger 3.0 TDCi. This has answered all my questions except for one. I cannot find the sequence for the valve adjustments. If possible, could you give these to me please?
It may be strange to you, but I have only worked on Opel/GM vehicles, having a 1974 Opel Kadett which is rule of 9 and then an Opel Rekord Berlina with hydraulic adjusters.
In 1978 I was asked to adjust valve clearances on a Vauxhall Viva and set them to the rule of nine, the engine sounded like a formula one, and I could not find the correct information.
I have not had Ford vehicles until recently.
John Swift
A The process of adjustment as you have correctly indicated does vary between manufacturers, and to adjust on the Ford engine is as follows:
► The engine must be turned until the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke for number 1 cylinder. The valves adjusted in this position are: cylinder 1 exhaust and inlet, cylinder 2 inlet, cylinder 3 exhaust.
► The engine is then turned until number 4 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, the valves adjusted in this position are: cylinder 2 exhaust, cylinder 3 inlet, cylinder 4 inlet and exhaust.
► After the adjustment it is advised to rotate the engine a further 360° and then re-check the adjustments.
► The clearances given by Ford with the engine cold are: Inlet 0.10-0.16mm Exhaust 0.17-0.23mm.
► The tightening torque of the lock nut is 20-24Nm.
FORD FIESTA
Battery issue
Q I recently purchased a 2013 Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost 125PS Titanium model, and whilst checking out the car noticed the battery voltage to be 11.8V after being used only the day before. The car started OK and had a charge voltage around 14.2V and no issues. The following day checking the voltage it was 12.7V so I thought all was OK, but kept an eye on it and several times was again below 12V.
I carefully removed the negative lead after approximately 30 minutes of stopping engine, with an ammeter in circuit and noticed 1.2amps was flowing, even though nothing was showing to be on, ie. lights, radio, etc, and doors were locked. When the voltage was down below 12V there was no current flowing. This is not consistent though as checked many times in identical circumstances and sometimes there is no current flowing and battery volts stay up for days.
Looking at forums, some say it is software-related for the Bluetooth radio (Sony) and that it sometimes searches for a Bluetooth device even when apparently off, but checking my phone shows no connection possible? I don’t trust the car if I need
