National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR ECUADOR

It’s late at night and I’m lying absolutely still. The hot air is so humid that sweat stings my eyes. All is dark. Cocooned behind insect netting in a cabin, I’m immersed in the forest’s sounds. The experience is so intense that sometimes tears of wonder fill my eyes, their salt merging with the night’s sweat.

Sixty thousand species of insect can live in 2.5 acres here in Ecuador’s eastern Amazon. Many of these species sing, creating a multilayeredThis is the deepest sound in the forest, delivered with the slowest tempo, a languorous bass. Tree frogs yelp from low vegetation, their call tight and nasal:

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