T
heart of mastering a job you never expected to have has been played out twice over at Château Léoville Poyferré, the family-owned and -run property situated in the north of the Médoc’s St-Julien appellation.
It is one of five second-growth classified estates in the commune, three of those sharing, perhaps confusingly, the Léoville name: Châteaux Léoville Las Cases, Léoville Barton and Léoville Poyferré.
What unites the estates, apart from a shared property in the case of Las Cases and Poyferré, is also what sets them apart – each the result of family inheritances and property divisions of the original Léoville vineyard (see ‘history’ box, right).
One of the most fascinating parts of the Léoville Poyferré story – and there are many – is that the current, and previous, general managers were both somewhat unexpectedly handed the reins to their family’s estates: Châteaux Léoville Poyferré, Moulin Riche, Le Crock and Cuvelier Los Andes in Argentina (see ‘family’ box, p57).
But after an abrupt career change for one, and a life overhaul for another, Léoville Poyferré is now at the top of its game, thanks to these two unlikely candidates and their team.
PASSING THE BATON First was Didier Cuvelier, who in 1979 at the age of 26 left a career in accountancy to take
