Chicago magazine

THE DISCERNING EATER’S GUIDE TO PLANT-BASED FOOD

The 20 Best Vegan Dishes in Town

FROM HUMMUS TO DAIRY-FREE SUNDAES, THESE ARE THE BITES (IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER) THAT EVEN NONVEGANS WILL RELISH.

1 Veggie House’s Three Cups Sauce Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

The big puffballs known as lion’s mane mushrooms have one of the great textures of the plant kingdom. Seared, braised, or stir-fried, they absorb cooking juices but keep their meaty integrity and chew. Their flavor, however, has a bitter edge that can be off-putting. Not so at this vegetarian restaurant. The kitchen prepares inch-size chunks of the mushrooms in the style of Taiwanese Three Cups chicken, with plenty of soy sauce, cooking wine, and sesame oil. But there’s more: Tiny bits of cinnamon stick, fried ginger, and ginseng in the sauce make for such an evocative dance of flavors that the bitterness of the star ingredient — JOHN KESSLER

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