Country Life

Table for two, per favore

REALLY, you could make the argument that all of London’s restaurants are international. The culinary boundaries are so porous that the hospitality industry is a truly global one. For the purposes of this feature, I’m going to focus on those that showcase the cuisine of a single country (with one notable exception) with reliable aplomb.

Bocca di Lupo W1

Padella, Manteca, Ombra, Artusi… London is exceptionally well served in the pasta stakes these days. But for all-round Italian excellence, it has to be Jacob Kenedy’s Bocca di Lupo. The menu describes itself as ‘a phrasebook in miniature, containing a taste of the 20, grilled porcini from Lombardy and cream-of-red-prawn risotto from Liguria. The drinks list, likewise, is temptingly comprehensive, with seven different negronis to choose from.

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