GOOD MEAT will cost you – and rightly so. Quality beef takes time, investment and care, from the 24-30 months the cattle will live to the dry-ageing process that occurs with weeks of hanging. Cows are big beasts – a good Hereford can weigh up to 850kg – so they eat a lot. Next time you baulk at the price of a steak on a restaurant menu, remember that it’s almost certainly the dish with the lowest mark-up. As beef aficionado John Torode once told this magazine: “Meat should be expensive. It’s a fucking animal.” Well, quite.
But times are tough and we don’t help matters. For such a large beast,
