Transferring from a 12-car Hokuriku bullet train (shinkansen) to a one-car sightseeing train, named Belles Montagnes et Mer, was like travelling back in time. Gone were the reclining seats and leg room; the hi-tech toilets and the smooth journey. These were replaced by beautiful Inami woodwork, ceiling fans, a Master of Ceremonies and an entertainer. Indeed, the interior and entertainment on many of Japan’s sightseeing trains – dubbed ‘Joyful Trains’ by one rail company – often reflect the crafts and traditional skills that go into them. For travellers, it turns a simple train journey into a cultural experience.
I had booked late, so was sat at a table, but the prize seats were undoubtedly those that swivelled to face the window. My Japanese wasn’t good enough to understand every part of the journey that the MC described during the 50-minute ride from Shin-Takaoka to Johana, but it didn’t matter. Just having an MC added to the fun of the experience. And for those who had ordered food, there was soon the distraction of bowls of sushi and glasses of sake being delivered to their seats. The entertainer even had a sasara (or bin-zasara), a percussion instrument used for folk songs and local dances, and played by moving it around like a wave.
On a shinkansen, most people read, sleep or look at their laptop, as they’re typically travelling too fast to enjoy the scenery. But I had no desire to do that here. There was always something to look at – even when stopping at stations, locals would sometimes wave at us. I will never forget my journey on a Japanese sightseeing train, but this is just one flavour of rail travel here. For anyone exploring Japan at large or making day trips from its cities, the skinkansen are invaluable. So, we’ve put together five itineraries that make the most of a country that practically lives on rails.
First-time visitor with a 14-day Japan Rail Pass
Tick off all the classic sites without getting overwhelmed by the
