Wanderlust

The Suffolk coast

rom a new lookout I peered down at the bumps scattering the banks of the Deben River. A bow and a stern poked out from a fulsome grassy knoll, a replica of the 27m-long wooden ship that became one of Britain’s great historical finds back in 1939. It was then that archaeologist Basil Brown unearthed an iron rivet at Sutton Hoo – the telltale sign of an ancient wooden vessel – before later uncovering the burial chamber of a 7th-century Anglo Saxon king cradled in its hull. The warrior had lain surrounded by treasures, though the most extraordinary find was the discovery of fragments of a helmet, now rebuilt. Its gilt-bronze nosepiece and eyebrows form a fantastical flying creature, its glinting eyes made of dazzling garnets.

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