India Today

CITY OF STALLED PROJECTS

It was meant to be a grand project, showcasing Mughal-era armour, attire, culture and related memorabilia. But take the red sandstone-topped Shilpgram Road to the eastern gate of the Taj Mahal, past the stone plaque bearing the legend ‘Mughal Museum’ and enter the iron gate adjacent to it, and you step into a dream that has long been abandoned.

The three-storey building on the 5.9-acre campus, 1,300 metres from the Taj’s eastern gate, has been lying unfinished for almost six years now. More than two dozen expensive cassette air-conditioners lie rusting in the open, reinforcing the sense of dystopia. The complex was to have a handicrafts market, a seminar hall and an art gallery. The hall for the handicrafts market is filled with rainwater; bushes have grown around it; the stones and tiles in the seminar hall—now serving as a shelter for stray dogs—have come off in several places.

Presiding over this abandoned landscape is a

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from India Today

India Today1 min read
A Mantra Called Self-reliance
For 25 years, S. Chandrakala worked at a bag manufacturer before she decided to set up a small shop of her own six years ago. With her provident fund money and savings, Chandrakala bought two sewing machines. She now makes and sells school bags, rain
India Today1 min read
Flower Power
It’s more usual to find thorny barbs being exchanged in West Bengal. And you can’t fault Adhir Ranjan Chowdhury if he’s always expecting a vitriolic word or two being hurled his way. The Congress warlord, fighting to keep Baharampur, gets as good as
India Today2 min read
The Reluctant Art Critic
Open any book on modern Indian art of the 20th century and the name of Rudolf von Leyden will leap out. Along with him there are two others, Walter Langhammer and Emanuel Schlesinger, who arrive a little later in pre-War Bombay, fellow exiles fleeing