was surfing all alone at a remote, 4WD spot in Western Australia, when I noticed somebody running down the big sand dune, board in hand. “Damn, there goes my Morning of the Earth solitude”… I wasn’t proud, but couldn’t help the aggro thoughts – a natural first reaction in a solo session at a break that’s usually crowded. How pitifully wrong I was. A huge smile in a weathered, kind face wrapped with beautiful, long silver hair, greeted me in the most charming British accent “Hello, how do you do?” It didn’t take me long to realize that my new surf buddy didn’t only have one, but at least a trilogy of books inside him. Trading waves, every time he took off, I couldn’t wait for him to come back to the line up to
