N THE WEE hours of a balmy summer night in Molsheim, France, I view Jupiter glowing high in the evening sky from the grounds of Château St. Jean, which has anchored these roughly 17 acres for the past 165 years. I'm overnighting in the shadow of this storybook residence, purchased in 1928 by Ettore Bugatti, founder of the renowned French automaker. In the modern era, such a
