t’s the hour before dawn and the aromas of South Africa’s Kruger National Park play chase in my nostrils: the musky aroma of elephant dung, a whiff of wild fennel. It smells good enough to eat. I’m perched on the top tier of our game drive vehicle, hedging it’s the safest seat should a predator show interest in our jeep. Still, head ranger Bonga Njajalu warns us not to dangle our arms out. We nod, knowing we look like ‘Meals on Wheels’ –
