SETTING OFF AND RETURNING

After two years of intermittent lockdowns, I was finally able to visit Esquina, my hometown. Nestled in Corrientes province in the northwest, Esquina has historical gaucho and Guarani roots.

I had arrived way before time at the Buenos Aires bus terminal in the Retiro district, with one of the city’s wealthiest areas to one side of it and a well-known squatter settlement on the other. During the high season for tourism, the terminal