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The ferry to Jura boasted the proud lines and facilities of a pontoon barge, and Fiona and I sheltered from the tempest in what resembled a bus shelter. Fortunately, there were no other passengers and the crossing took 10 minutes. Disembarking at Feolin, we were spared excess fanfare or formalities. The skipper gesticulated for us to push our bicycles down the gangplank and up the concrete slipway. With only one road to choose from – a single-track lane, grandly designated the A846 – we wobbled into the
