Somerset STYLE
In the minimalist dining room, the show begins. Smartly dressed waiters deliver a parade of artful dishes: Jerusalem artichokes with black garlic and Japanese togarashi spice. Grilled hispi cabbage with pork and mustard. Chocolate tart with sourdough ice cream. Nibbling away, surrounded by chic couples sipping trendy natural wines, I could swear I’m in hip London or Manchester.
But I’m not in either city – I’m in Somerset. Rural Somerset. In fact, the high street here, in the town of Bruton, is so petite that it takes just a few minutes to walk its entirety; after that, you’re in fields of sheep. Yet celebrated chef Merlin Labron-Johnson chose to open his Michelin-starred Osip restaurant right here. Why?
