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15 Mom and Pops

Shopping at Buc-ee’s is a ritual for many travelers in need of a break from Texas’ long stretches of highway—and pickme-ups like Beaver Nuggets. In our May 2021 issue, we published a story on the Lake Jackson-based convenience store chain, and our social media lit up with comments from readers telling us about their favorite one-stop shops, from Stuckey’s, to Irving-based 7-Eleven, to lesser-known spots. That got us thinking: Why not highlight the smaller, often independently owned and family-run stores that provide essential goods and services to their communities?

In this feature story—a whopping 26 pages and roughly 7,000 words—we present 15 “mom and pop” shops that hit the spot. We enlisted nine writers to showcase geographically diverse places outside of the major cities. We also looked for establishments that provide an eclectic mix of goods, from bait at Johnson’s Ranch Marina, to hay bales at Rosston General Store, to homemade pimento cheese at Good Things Grocery. The result is a colorful list full of local pride. Go and champion small town entrepreneurship—and pick up one-of-a-kind finds along the way. —Michael Hoinski

Johnson’s Ranch Marina

This time-forgotten swamp shack on the shores of Caddo Lake has stayed in operation for more than a century by providing a little bit of everything to the East Texas fishing village of Uncertain. Customers can charter a fishing guide or a bayou tour, grab a snack and a six-pack, gas up a boat, buy some bait, cast a fishing line, paddle a canoe or kayak, rent a cabin with a screened porch, or simply catch the local gossip while idling on the wooden benches outside the front door.

Established in 1908, Johnson’s Ranch is the oldest inland marina in Texas—and it looks the part. Spanish moss dangles from the rafters below a rusted metal roof, as the ripples from passing boats lap the pylons that keep the whole enterprise from sinking into the water. Come Fourth of July, there’s no better spot to watch Uncertain’s annual boat parade and fireworks show than from a front-row seat on the covered wooden deck among the bald cypress knees.

But change is inevitable. After a lifetime on Caddo Lake, the store’s friendly proprietor, Billy Carter, died in the spring of 2021. His son, Will Carter, a mud boat aficionado, took charge and brought the marina into the 21st century. He replaced the rotting wooden planks on the docks, cleared the brush overtaking the property, and is leveling the floors. “The old ranch was trying to fall down on us, so every profit we made last year, we put back into this place,” Carter says. “It’s been cleaning up good.” —Wes Ferguson

5131 E. Cypress Drive, Uncertain. 903-789-3213; jrmarina.com. Open: Daily. Essentials: Alcohol, Bait, Food, Lottery, Souvenirs.

Owl Drug

Arriving at this corner store on downtown Coleman’s main drag, it’s impossible to know where to turn first. The vast collection of Elvis memorabilia functioning as décor commands attention, as does the extensive selection of products, including essential oils, kitchen gear, and gifts. But the drool-worthy aromas wafting from the soda fountain prove impossible to resist—treats first, then shopping.

Behind the soda fountain counter, a well-seasoned griddle stays busy through breakfast and lunch. The century-old store’s big seller these days is the 1923 Burger, a ground beef patty hand-formed, cooked to order, and topped with smoked bacon, grilled mushrooms, melted Havarti cheese, crispy fried onions, and fig jam. Offered until 4:32 p.m. each day (for customers late to the 4:30 p.m. cutoff), the burger is best washed down with an ice cream soda made from scratch.

“We let kids come behind the soda fountain and learn to make drinks the old-fashioned way,” says Cathy Allen, whose family