Country Life

Why did farming go wrong?

Rooted: Stories of Life, Land and a Farming Revolution

Sarah Langford (Viking, £16.99)

MY grandfather, who served 50 years down on the farm, cultivated a number of aphorisms about agriculture. I distinctly remember one: ‘It’s the Devil’s own job.’ He meant that the work was infernally hard. Poppop would have been surprised by the twist that George Monbiot, the well-known exponent of rewilding, has given to his bon mot concerning Lucifer and farming. Mr Monbiot considers farming ‘the most destructive force ever to have been unleashed by humans’. In his opinion farmers are quite literally doing the Devil’s work by bringing about the Apocalypse.

Such demonisation of farming by ultra-rewilders is only one of the many woes modern farmers face, as Sarah Langford elucidates in her excellent, immensely readable book. A former barrister, the author of the bestseller, she has uprooted from is in part a personal journey back into farming, which was her grandparents’ occupation, and in part a ‘state-of-the-agricultural-nation’ survey. It works on both levels, not least because it has the clarity of argument one would expect, and the empathy one would hope, from a lawyer.

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