Specialist subjects
Most restaurants are generalists: be they French or Chinese, seafood or vegan, brunch or dinner spots, their menus blend national or global influences. But, for a minority of chefs and owners, food is all about specialisation, in a service style, regional cuisine or product. This month, Olive salutes the deep-divers who, absorbed in their niches, enrich food for all.
PIONEERING KAISEKI
The Japanese influence on Western dining is profound. Modern tasting menus, for example, owe a debt to kaiseki, a formal, multi-course Japanese dining style that has fascinated European chefs for decades. Trained at Yoshihiro Murata’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant Kikunoi, Daisuke Hayashi
