GOOD NEWS FROM THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION

‘Theyʼre coming to us,ʼ said Emmanuel Ahishakiye, his voice a whisper.

This was surprising news. We were geared up and psyched to climb the steep, forested slopes of Sabyinyo volcano to find mountain gorillas, a trek that might have lasted anywhere between 30 minutes and a couple of hours. But, just a few minutes into the forest, the gorillas were saving us all the trouble. ʻThe gorillas are always moving, always searching for food,ʼ explained Emmanuel, the lead guide on the trek.

We heard them before we saw them, the sound of snapping branches announcing their arrival. I spotted a female among the bushes, and an infant, both obscured by leaves.

And then the rest emerged, one by one, sauntering along the trail, occasionally stopping to eat and to let the others catch up. On their backs, mothers carried babies, who eyed us curiously as they rode past.

The mighty silverback of the Muhoza family was a quiet, powerful presence among them. ʻThis is Marambo, one of my favourite gorillas,ʼ Emmanuel told me. ʻThis is one of the top five largest silverbacks in Volcanoes National Park. Heʼs big and handsome. Some silverbacks are aggressive and grunt at you to move, but heʼs very humble.ʼ

Giant that he was, the mighty silverback continued through the trees, paying us little attention. We were merely visitors; this was his domain, his forest.

Maramboʼs group numbered 18 gorillas, including eight adult females. ʻHeʼs a busy man,ʼ Emmanuel laughed. ʻWe have six babies here. The youngest is four months old. This silverback was young and strong, so he took nine females. Before that, he did a lot of cheating and illegal mating. But he convinced