Yachting World

EASTBOUND EPIC

Departure time is a time of optimism for Ginger and me. All the stress of decision making and the work of planning and provisioning is behind us, and we are almost always full of good hope for an upcoming passage. Last year we were readying to leave the Mediterranean, departing on a voyage to home half a world away near Seattle.

Our ketch, Irene, was ready to go – with new bottom paint, fresh varnish, and full fuel and water tanks. Her lockers were crammed with excellent and inexpensive Turkish produce; olive oil, wine, grains and meats. As we stowed provisions on that bright and sunny morning, we glanced past the breakwater and saw the Med was deep blue and speckled with whitecaps. A perfect sailing wind was blowing.

Our crew of two was ready to go, too. Turkey had been a wonderful place to visit, both for sailing and visits inland, but the Covid pandemic had impacted the world while we were there. We’d been locked down for four months, and onward borders were closing.

We needed to come up with a plan for action, and we came up with a bold one: we decided to sail non-stop, mostly eastbound, halfway around the globe. We’d sail from Turkey to Seattle: down the Red Sea, across the Indian Ocean, and into the Pacific, crossing eastward in the northern latitudes. We would stop in Djibouti, Indonesia, Japan and lastly at Dutch Harbour in the Aleutian Islands.

We were aware that our plan came with some difficulties. The transit of the Red Sea was one – leaving in July, we’d be sailing in the hottest sea in the world at the hottest time of year. Then we would enter’s strong point – especially with her by-now worn and baggy suit of sails. But the positives seemed to outweigh the negatives, and as we talked over the options Ginger looked at me, raised her glass of Raki, and declared “I’m in!”

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