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EATING AT THE PUMP (AND THE LAUNDROMAT)

In the 1960s, my parents would pile my brothers and me into our truck camper for annual road trips. With fast-food restaurants few and far between, we cooked our meals at campsites or relied on my father’s unerring knack for finding the best greasy spoon in the towns we passed through. He was a traveling salesman and king of the road.

Despite the current proliferation of neon signs that dominate America’s road-food landscape, I try to continue that tradition on the road trips that I now take. When it is time to eat, I stop and set up my RV’s kitchen, or I find an eatery where the food is made fresh. Surprisingly, that can be at a gas station, or even a laundromat.

Loukoumades are Greek donuts—little pillows of fried pastry often coated in warm honey. I found excellent loukoumades at Café Neo inside the Shell station near Mount Comfort, Indiana. The sign for Café Neo, standing in

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