DINE OUT IN GALICIA’S UNOFFICIAL RESTAURANTS
The waitress arrives with a stack of china bowls and an oversized milk bottle filled with yellow liquid, glowing bright gold against the afternoon sun. It’s wine — sharp and sweet, almost like cider — and the bowls, cuncas in Galician, are for drinking from.
“What can I get you?” she asks. I haven’t seen a menu, but I’m expected to know the answer. Noticing my blank expression, she flashes an oil-splattered note with five dishes scribbled on it. “Usually people order the chipirones and the raxo,” she says, disappearing back into the kitchen. Baby squid and
