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  • The Critic Magazine

    Earthly pleasures

    May 26, 2022 3 minutes

    IS THERE ANYTHING MORE magical than digging up homegrown new potatoes? Yes, the gluttonous gardener will respond: the first bite of creamy sweetness when you serve them up with nothing more than a curl of salty butter and a scattering of fresh herbs.

    Allotments represent all manner of things to those who labour in them, from escape hatch to therapist’s couch, but for me our plot is first and foremost a larder, and June

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