POINT of ORIGIN
As I gaze down at the kaleidoscope of neon-bright yellowtail surgeonfish, I’m aware of a sudden movement to my right. The only thing that stops me gasping aloud is the snorkel mouthpiece clamped firmly between my teeth.
A sleek Galapagos sea lion has dived into the water right next to me and with its head cocked to one side, the creature observes its inept and infinitely less streamlined swim buddy with a pair of quizzical, large brown eyes. Having seen enough, it twists effortlessly away and heads through the clear depths towards the reef below.
Three more follow and as one brushes past a fellow snorkeller, it’s evident that our strict rule of keeping at least six feet away from animals doesn’t apply in reverse.
We pop our heads back above the surface, and our guide Marco explains that the most
