I’VE NEVER been a great consumer of pork. This may come as a surprise as I’ve featured it in my columns over the years. That said, you won’t find a more devoted devourer of the cured, salted, smoked, pickled varieties of pork. I confess to enjoying crackling from my grandmother’s Sunday roast, or the unctuous surrender of properly rendered pork belly. I’ve lost count of the chilli-caramel hocks that have passed
