Country Life

Oh, crumbs!

CRUNCH. A slim, crisp, slow-baked biscuit and its attendant dense, enveloping layer of rich, black-brown chocolate splits from a forceful bite, releasing a medley of exquisite sweetness tempered with a modicum of bitterness and barely there hints of malt and hops. Copies of this diminutive, inexact (and not inexpensive) oval have been tantalising tastebuds for almost a century, for this is a Chocolate Oliver, made to a recipe patented during the 1930s and once crafted in the Reading factory of biscuit giant Huntley & Palmers, under whose revered name it is still sold today.

By the time this patent paperwork had been signed, Huntley & Palmers had

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