BLACK TOPSY-TURVY boat floats on the Mediterranean Sea, and a girl with a blue tongue licks an ice-cream cone on the shore, her other pale hand holding the outlines of a bicycle. I could be describing a scene from a surreal dream, but this is a moment in Pablo Picasso’s famed (1939). As I stood before this monumental tapestry, a lesser-known medium in Picasso’s oeuvre, the pristine blue waves that were lashing against the coast of Antibes spilled into the room and I could breathe the scent of the nocturnal sea that inspired him to paint and weave this scene. hangs majestically in the same castle where Picasso spent six months making a breathtakingly new body of works in 1946, along with other works made by him in this period. The Musée Picasso in Antibes is housed in Chateau Grimaldi, a 12th-century castle that so entranced Picasso that after his visit in 1946, he continued to
