EDINBURGH

dinburgh is famously a city of two historic halves: the Old Town’s forbidding castle and jagged skyline squaring off against the New Town, all pleasant crescents and leafy boulevards. But the Scottish capital is far from preserved in aspic — forever reinventing itself, the city has been moving with the times over the past few years, with work underway to extend the tram network and a multimillion pound redevelopment of the St James Quarter at the end of Leith Walk. In fact, there were even rumblings that the city might lose its UNESCO World Heritage status with all the modernisation. This state of flux is reflected in the constantly evolving accommodation scene, too. Sleek boutique hotels have popped up in grand Georgian townhouses, former