The FOUR Battlefields
In my youth, for my friends and me at the Bay of Plenty in Durban, Hawaii was the red-hot centre of the surfing universe. Hawaii was our Valhalla, a mythic place where surfing gods actually lived and went to battle on the hallowed waves of Sunset Beach, Banzai Pipeline, Haleiwa and Waimea Bay. Our gods had the names of Barry Kanaiaupuni, Jeff Hakman, Reno Abellira, Eddie Aikau and Gerry Lopez.
On my bedroom wall at Grosvenor Court, overlooking the Bay’s deep
