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LETTER FROM Ithala

There’s a sign here that warns of crocodiles. Swimming in the Phongolo River is out of the question, then. But it’s also good: Places with crocodiles are properly wild places.

Ithala Game Reserve wouldn’t make a top 10 list of South Africa’s best wildlife refuges because it lacks the glamour – and size – of a Kruger, Kgalagadi or Hluhluwe-iMfolozi. It’s tucked away in a hilly corner of KwaZulu-Natal near

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