I just love it when someone uses a pink highlighter to point out my position in the universe. In the office at Ithala Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, the receptionist pushes my chalet key across the counter – one of those keys attached to a big wooden ornament so that you don’t accidentally drive off with it when you leave. (This particular key would barely fit in the boot of a Jimny…) Then she puts down a map of the rest camp, one that has been photocopied a thousand times, and whips out her pink highlighter.
“We are here,” she says, circling the reception area and thus confirming our existence in this happy place. “You follow this road, turn right at the big
