Bordering on the insane
For every one of the five following kilometres to the 1,327m summit, the gradient is well into double digits and it doesn’t let up
We might as well be in another country, in another season. It’s a weekend in late August so right now the Col du Tourmalet, just 80km to the east, will be a bustling maelstrom of campervans, motorbikes, cars and cyclists by the score. Here, however, on the Col d’Arnostéguy in the western Pyrenées-Atlantiques department, we have the road entirely to ourselves. And there’s nothing else here – no cafes, no ski lifts, no power lines, no sign of the encroachment of mankind save for the narrow strip of tarmac. The difference is astounding.
While the Pyrenees stretch from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, across the full width of Spain’s border with France, all of the famous French passes are in the middle third. Don’t feel bad if you can’t name any climbs outside of that area, because before this trip nor could I. All the more reason to pay a visit and find out what’s here.
The outer reaches
Last year I got the chance to explore the eastern Pyrenees and I discovered a region with its own completely distinct character (see issue 116). I rode that route with friends Adrian and Mike, and I’ve brought the gang back together for this ride at the western end of the mountain range.
They are both strong riders, and are always up for a challenge, which is a good thing as this Big Ride is especially big: 157km with nearly 4,700m of climbing. The size and severity of the route is dictated by what roads are available to complete a loop, and it stands out on
