Step out in Northern Ireland

Standing on the deck of the ferry from Cairnryan, excitedly watching Northern Ireland getting closer, dolphins and gannets added to the thrill of visiting somewhere new. Landing in Larne, we drove along the coastline-hugging road, taking in our new surroundings and not stopping until Glenariff Forest, where we stretched our legs on the Waterfalls Walk.

At the third cascade, Ess-na-Crub, I noticed a distinctive fern-frond directional sign for the Ulster Way. This was our first section of a long-distance route that passes through all six of Northern Ireland’s historic counties: Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Londonderry and Tyrone. Immediately inspired, I decided we could visit these six counties on our own tour of Northern Ireland.

Cushendun was a delightful first overnight stop and we strolled along the shore and by the quaint row of whitewashed Cornish-style houses designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis (Portmeirion’s architect). Driving further west to the small parking area for Kinbane Castle, we took the narrow path along the headland to the dramatically sited ruin. Continuing along the limestone point from the tower, it became narrower and the drop on either side steeper. “That was the limit of my comfort zone,” Anthony exclaimed when we returned to safety.

All campervan owners know that height barriers are a headache and there are plenty along the Antrim coast, including at Ballintoy’s large car park. We eventually found a layby and set off around